Bienvenidos a Pilsen, the Coyoacan (Or SoHo) of Chicago!

Yeah, last night was very eventful...after dedicating my evening to Facebook, I was getting ready to go out with my father and uncle. They picked me up and brought me goodies from the Burbs, in other words FOOD! We were deciding were to go, my uncle wanted Pompei in Little Italy and my dad wanted lamb from Greek Islands in Greektown...so we go through Greektown, and kept going and then went to Taylor and drove past the Piazza di Maggio and stopped in front of Pompei! I wated Mexican food, so we decided to go to Pilsen. They wanted to go to Playa Azul...I wanted to go back to Restaurante Nuevo Leon. I know, I sound annoying, but I was really wanting that Especial Cazuela dish...so good! So we went there and thanks to the nice weather, people were walking everywhere and the music was coming out of the balconies and windows. Food, amazing as always but the restaurant was jampacked last night. So many people, we barely got a seat! But my father's Tampique~na looked amazing...and it was, I ate a lot of it! And we got this nice little soup for free! After that, we walked around a lil bit and found this really cool Bookstore, ALL IN SPANISH! Great! We bought like 5 books and then....to be continued....I'm going to Little Italy now...BACK!

I dunno, the only thing I can say about Pilsen is to have a really good soundtrack of Mexican music (I'm not talking about Polka or something like that), more like something like Rodrio y Gabriela, Cafe Tacvba, Zoe, Ely Guerra, Moenia things along those lines, even some Lilia Downs, or for the "fresas" (preppies) some RBD, Fey or the bands Reik and Camila. It greatly reminds me of the Mexican SoHo called Coyoacan. Very artsy. I bet in the summer it gets 1000 Xs better! Either way, once you get off the El Train stop (Blue Line 18th Street Stop direction 54th/Cermak) you see the murals surrounding the train station in the inside and they follow your every step as you go down to 18th Street, which is the main street in Pilsen. You walk to the street and either way your nose is invaded by the scent of warm food, those spices that cover the warm meats such as steaks and chicken and the great Mariscos (Seafood) in the Ostioneria's. From the El Station you can see a beautiful Church, called the St. Adalbert's Church. This is the "Mother of all Polish Churches in Chicago". Services are given in English, Spanish and Polish. Every migration gave it it's touch. The Poles built it, the Bohemians (Czhechs) gave it beautiful interiors, and the Mexicans brought shrines from Mexico...especially the Lady of the Lakes from Jalisco (both churches look very identical, which is creepy) and the Our Lady of Guadalupe, of course. Only fitting that this church is in this neighbourhood. Music is blasting from the windows and balconies, from the Polkas and Narco-Corridos, Rock en Espan~ol, Pop (Rebelde's RBD primarily), Raegetton (Gross, my God, when will this die out). But many art galleries, such as the National Museum of Mexican Art, which is the largest in the Midwest dedicated to Mexican Art. Paintings from Kahlo can be seen here! But it's during the Day of the Dead when it's supposed to get better, for they have a huge Shrine to the Dead. Another cool building would be Thalia Hall (Not dedicated to the Mexican singer named Thalia, Thank God!), very different and massive, which used to be an Opera House I was told and was built by Czech migrants to resemble the Opera House in Prague, it's undergoing massive renovation to make it into the beautiful Opera House it was meant to be with a cafe. When you walk east on 18th Street, you pass the beautiful Libreria Giron (Giron Bookstore) which sells all books in Spanish. For those of you studying Spanish, this is a great place where you can get cheap books by Allende, Marquez, Pitol, and of course Miguel de Cervantes! You will be surrounded by music by Mozart and Beethoven, as if you were in the Ghandi Bookstore in downtown Mexico City. Further East you will find Radio Arte, an indie radio station broadcasted here, all in Spanish where I was delighted to hear a Mix of Moenia's Classic "Dejame Entrar". Walk a little further (Which is as far as I went) and, for me, it was a surprise, for there was a roundabout which is crowned by an eagle with a snake in its beak: The Mexican Emblem (As you can see in the flag). It is in the intersection of 18th Street, Loomis (If you go north it takes you to Little Italy, 2-4 minute drive, I just learned this for those who care to take a tour of Ethnic Chicago one Day), and Blue Island which brings to mind the "Angel" of Independence Column in Mexico City, the symbol of the City, which is actually the Greek Goddess Nike, goddess of Victory! Going further East we will find the TRUE Coyoacan/SoHo of Chicago, for it's more of the Art district. Many galleries we will find here, young people from different backgrounds have blended in well with the local Mexican Art scene. There is fear of gentrification going on, like what happened in Wicker Park in the Northwest side, where younger people moved in and made it the "Hip" place of Chicago, and now Bars and Clubs replaced the old Polish and Puerto Rican communites, because prices have been rising. So either gentrification does happen or both art communities blend in well and secure the area. I mean, what would be better than spending a day in Pilsen: Go in early, get a great Mexican breakfast, like Machacada con Huevo or walk into some of the many Mexican bakeries and a hot chocolate for an authentic Mexican breakfast (Mexicans don't eat breakfast like Americans, kinda like the French, Spanish and Italians...guess it's a Latin thing?), walk around to an art gallery or two, go to some coffee shop for a small lunch (Famous Coffee Shops in the area are Cafe Mestizo and Coffee Jumping Bean, which have maintained Starbucks out of the picture THANK GOD! Cafe Mestizo has open mic on Weds.'s where poets and musicians Step it Up in English and Spanish, other days you just hear the political debates from the local young crowd, I guess every Poet in Chicago has to step this place at least once, very cool looking place in my opinion, really reminds me of Coyoacan!). Go to the National Museum of Mexican Art and spend a good time there admiring what more Pilsen has to offer, for Pilsen has more art galleries than any other neighbourhood in Chicago, even wealthier neighbourhoods (Well, Pilsen is not by any means a wealthy neighbourhood, but HELLO! It's trying to be a SoHo/Coyoacan artsy neighbourhood!)...after that, walk by the street vendors which sell all sorts of candies, steamed corn with mayo, cheese, lemon, salt and chilly poder; Razpados (Like Icee drinks...but much better!), maybe even Coca-Cola in little bags with straws (my fellow Mexican-Americans know what I'm talking about!), to any of the corner stores (Which sell Kinder Chocolate...from germany but what I ate when I was young in Mexico...no other place in Chicago has this so it's a HUGE deal for me!). But try the better Mexican restaurants in Pilsen with AUTHENTIC Mexican cuisine and fusions. Cuernavaca Restaurant has great Mole! Restaurante Nuevo Leon brings northern syrio/cryptic Mexican cuisine from the state of Nuevo Leon (Try the Panela Cheese as an appetizer! DELICIOUS! No other place to my limited knowledge has this great cheese, interesting enough it has NO FAT! WTF? That's enough for me to try!) and check out the awesome building! Mundial Cocina Mestiza is very popular, fusing Mexican and Meditteranean cuisines...not weird for Heart of Italy (Little Tuscany) is a few blocks south and Little Italy a few blocks north! For Mexican seafood...Playa Azul, just look for the Topless Mermaid and it's in front of Restaurante Nuevo Leon. For quick Tacos, no other place like Tacos Palas...trust me! Been here before...my dad actually wanted to come here...! Carnitas Uruapan and Sabas Vega for the best Carnitas (Stewed Pork)...delicious!
For the alcoholics like me...Metromix.com (My essential Guide through this adventure!) tells me that Skylark and Paulie's Place are the best option, CHEAP drinks and the local artsy crown come here late at night! Great place to end an exciting day exploring Mexico in Chicago. Many monuments, art galleries (The whole neighbourhood is an art gallery, from the Bohemian buildings built by the Czechs, the Polish Churches, and the Mexican Murals in the buildings are a treasure in itself not found elsewehere in Chicago!), Churches, and La Gatronomia Mexicana (Mexican Culinary Culture) make this an awesome option to visit! Don't forget to buy your Mexican bread in the bakeries along 18th St...for Mexican bread is the legacy the French left in Mexico (Among other things...) and some cheap booze, especially under th 18th El train Station, this little corner shop sells great cheap booze, Mexican booze like Corona, Sol, Bohemia, Pacifico, Victoria and Tequilas and wines (I bought Asturian Cider for 3 bucks!)!
Pilsen, I noticed, is mainly made up of Central and Northern Mexican ex-pats and descendents... to see the children of Oaxaca, Guerrero and Chiapas just go further west into La Villita (Little Village) which is crowned by the Hacienda Archs in pink with the Bienvenidos a Little Village sign. Now this area is not as dangerous as it's surrounding neighbourhoods, but it does have some gang activities. It is larger than Pilsen and has many options in food and maybe even cultural events.
Check out the Cinco de Mayo, Independence Day (September 16...it's not Cinco de Mayo!), Day of the Dead and Dia de Guadalupe (Dec. 10th) which is also a Pilsen festival! All these festivals should get good...will try to go to the Cinco de Mayo one!
Shopping is good here...from books (Libreria Girón), Nuevo Latino Boutiques (Mestiza, OMD, Under the Wire and The Rag Shop?), shoes (Zapatillas...I saw in the windows shoes for $450! WTF? Girls???), even Vinyl Records at Revolver Records among other shops! For sure will keep coming back!
God Save Pilsen...or Dios, Salve a Pilsen!

OK...I read this and it sounds like Rachel Ray's Tasty Travels...screw her! I can do it better than her anytime! She should of came here when she was in Chicago! Stupid Cow!

Adios y regresen pronto! Chau, hasta luego! Vamonos a Italia!

Great article on how the Mexican community in Pilsen gives artistic presence to Chicago by U of I:

http://www.news.uiuc.edu/NEWS/06/1109immigrants.html

PS: When I get my cables to upload pix...I will upload my own pix, for now, here are some interesting ones, I couldn't find any of the monument to the Mexican Eagle in the roundabout but I have some night shots, will go in the daytime and take more pictures for the blog. Hope y'all enjoy! I was listenging to Cafe Tacvba the whole time I was doing this...such a great band!

PS2: I came across this video of how the people of Pilsen are trying to preserve a Green Space called Jardin Cesar Chavez, and how some Grinch wants to come in and take it down to build a PARKING LOT! ARE YOU F**KING KIDDING ME? here is the website: http://www.jardincesarchavez.org/

and the video that I found:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZUywajKXxg

Let's not let this happen and send our E-Mails to help out, they can't just do this! Ridiculous!

God this pisses me off!

Ahora si, adios chavos!

NIU incident

We were speaking in my classes today about the horrible incident that happened in DeKalb's Northern Illinois University yesterday, where some lunatic decided to open fire on a stage full of students in a geology class. Apparently the 27 year old murderer was a bright student and stunned all the people the knew him. Apparently the guy stopped taking his medication and we all saw the consequences of this future law enforcer (Yes, you heard right). So far, 6 people have been murdered and many more injured. DeKalb and especially NIU have been connected through me by going there to party and hang out, and it's just so weird when you hear of these incidents and they seem miles away, but when it happens in your own backyard and you have loved ones that might be hurt, it is just a horrible feeling. My God, what has this country become? It is the 4th incident THIS WEEK of this kind! Well, RIP for those who died and my sympathy goes to the victim's families and friends.
When will this stop?

First Post!

Name: Armando ESAU Farfan (Esau's fine)

Location: Loyola University Chicago

Purpose: In short: To explore Chicago's ethnic diversity in (especially) food, architecture, language, culture and everything esle that might interest me. Also, putting my thoughts of the moment and ranting on things (PEOPLE) randomly, snapping on celebs and occasionaly giving my political views.

In long:
Now, the purpose of this blog is because many of those who know me know that I love to travel. Whenever there's an opportunity to travel, especially abroad, I take it. I've been travelling every year of my life since I was 10 months old when my parents sent me with my nanny to Mexico City to visit my relatives. Not that I have something against the United States, it never really interested me to travel to other cities in the USA for they all look the same, and have the same things to offer (In my mind) that other cities do, same restaurants and stores, no real culinary culture and things like that. So reading on things from Europe and Latin America I always dreamt of travelling the world. I went to Europe in 2003 for the first time and was there for 2 weeks and went to 3 countries (France, Switzerland and Monaco) for my french class. I fell in love with it. I dreamed of backpacking one day all over Europe but it took me 3 long years to visit Europe again. Found a great deal to London and extended my trip for 3 months and went all over western Europe: France, Spain, Andorra, Italy, Monaco, Switzerland, Austria, Holland, Belgium, Vatican City, Lichenstein, and some others. It was great, 3 months and not much money spent, living in hostels and meeting people, going with Contiki (Greatest experience of my life!) and making great friends, eating the best food in family owned places. WOW! I wanted to live in England, so I left Waubonsee and went towards Richmond University in London (Kensington). It was here that I met really awesome people from all over the globe. It was great! Loved the school, loved the cheap travel, the pubs, the beer, English breakfast, drunk nights and the crazy people, Ministry of Sound and everything! Saddened I went back to frosty Chicago, got accepted in many universities but chose to live in Loyola Chicago for it was in downtown (Going from London to cornfields was not going to be a good transition for me, but Chicago was promising). No more weekend trips to Czech Republic, Ireland, Italy or Spain, just staying in this damn state while it snows for most of the year. But then I remember places like Greektown, Little Italy and the Mexican enclaves in Pilsen and Little Village (La Villita) and I did an extensive investigation and found out more ethnic enclaves in the city of Chicago. My roommate and I decided to visit at least one Ethnic Town a week, so we've been to Greektown, Pilsen and Chinatown so far. No pictures, but good experiences (Except for me in Chinatown where the food was not good on me and I ended up vomiting all night and having stomach pains till now!). So instead of my usual weekend trips to other countries, I will take trips to other "countries" inside of Chicago and around Chicago. Experience what has remained of the culture from their place of origin, which places are more like "facade" colonies/ethnic towns and which really transported me to the land of origin. I will start with some comments of the three we have visited so far:
Greektown: Went at night, saw some pilars and the Walgreens in Greek letters, went into Greek Islands restaurant: Excelent, people speaking Greek and when you see locals you know it's good.
Pilsen: Beautiful murals evoked the murals of Mexican artists such as Orozco, Rivera, and O'Gorman. The restaurant was Restaurante Nuevo Leon: GREAT! Northern Mexican Cuisine in this Chicago corner.
Chinatown: No other place like it in Chicago, the arquitecture is just beautiful and it really does transport you. We went to Yummy restaurant, a hip place in Chinatown, excelent presentation, my friends loved the food, so did I at the time. Amazing place.
The blog will go more into detail with pictures to accompany my comments, and next time will be Little Italy.